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Belief,
Logic and Luck It was during this trip that some important
information was passed on to Smith. “The Northern Pacific Railway
announced plans to extend to the Puget Sound country”—a highly
undeveloped part of the west of which Henry had heard glowing
reports.8 Smith did not miss the implication of the potential
cash reality of railroads and cities, given his intelligence
and better-than-average social background. He seemed to realize
this railroad could bring with it great commerce and economic
growth. Soon, this most compelling idea was the one that called
Smith away from California and spurred him onward to Magnolia.
Leaving his mother and sister in Portland,
Henry traveled to Puget Sound in a small canoe. Some accounts
say a gruff but
friendly pioneer named L. M. Collins told Smith to pack
his duds promising “in three day’s time I will land you in
the Garden of Eden or give
you my head as a football.”9 Along the harbor, Smith saw a bay flanked on
both sides with good possibilities to make a railroad track and shipping
piers, using
fill, over vast tidelands. Scouting the area, he found a valley
between Elliott Bay and the inner harbor of Salmon Bay. There
he staked a donation claim
of 160 acres.
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The
boundaries of this claim were West Barrett to West Armour
Street, and 16th Avenue West to 20th Avenue West.11 The
beauty of the country struck him profoundly. He wrote about
it often in his later life in poetic form in journals,
some of which were published.12 Young Smith, working on logic, rumors
and discussions with fellow settlers such as David Denny,
seemed more and more vindicated in his choice of property
for the potential railroad land. Smith determined that
this cove was the perfect spot for shipping docks and a
natural tidewater terminus for a transcontinental railroad
that would someday reach Puget Sound by way of the old
Indian trail across the mountains. More than 40 years later
the Seattle, Eastern, Lakeshore Railway Company did reach
Seattle. The great shipping piers Denny and Smith envisioned
at Smith’s Cove subsequently became a reality also. More Than Expected Smith brought his mother and sister
to his new land. “His mother staked a claim a bit to the
north. He built a two-story frame house, with lumber which
was brought to the cove on scows from Yesler’s mill and
then by ox-teams to the building site.”13 This luxury illustrated
that Smith was a little better off than one would imagine
given his age and life experiences to date. Smith, now with a reputation as a “visionary” and
the common sense of a businessman, could also see the probability
of a canal connecting lakes and Salmon Bay to Puget Sound.
With the bay located next to his claim, this provided potential
to make financial gains.
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The most “official” portrait
used for Dr. Smith.
UW Special Collections #UW 18650.
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these early days of the densely wooded and lowly populated city,
he did not stand around and dream. Smith was a man of zealous
industry. He built a cabin for his mother and sister. When Indians burned the cabin down, his
mother and Ellender moved temporarily to the safety of the Seattle
blockhouses used as shelter during the Indian War days. Smith
defended the colony along with the town leaders; their main raiders
were Indians from Eastern Washington. The War ended in the fall
of 1856. He bought more property from settlers who fled during
the conflict, raising his land holdings to 800 acres.14
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By now, Ellender had married Charles Plummer, a wealthy town merchant, and
Smith’s mother kept house at Smith’s log cabin, while he built her another
home in the orchard near the burnt remains of the one previously destroyed.15 Ione wrote about her parents: “In
1862, Henry Smith married Miss Mary Ann Genevieve Phelan
of Portland Oregon, a red cheeked brunette with a lithe
figure . . . and a very gracious manner. Her father had
immigrated from the County Cork Ireland, first settled
in Madison, Wisconsin where he acquired large land holdings.”16 At Grand Boulevard (now West Dravus
Street) and 15th Avenue West, Smith decided to establish
a medical practice and built an infirmary on the side of
his home, continuing to grow plenty of fruits and vegetables,
and raising animals. When his practice slowed down, he
recognized the local population’s good health. Clarence
Bagley, a historian and contemporary of Smith, wrote: “They
afforded him too little sickness to realize any profit
on medicine, he had better work a piece of land like everyone
else.”17 Eventually, he built a fine reputation
as a doctor who treated both Indians and white settlers.
From then on, a medical practice of some sort continued
at all three of his homes, w h e re no one was ever turned
away. If they couldn’t pay him, they could help clear land.
According to Smith: “They wouldn’t have any money, but
they always promised to send me some. I found that promises
to pay didn’t get much farther than their lips, so I tumbled
to the scheme of setting them to work clearing up my 800
acres until they had settled their bills.”18 Smith had a certain respect for the
Indians as human beings and took the time to try to learn
their language. Smith is quoted as saying, “Many persons
are honestly of the opinion that Indians have no ideas above
catching and eating salmon, but if they will lay aside prejudice
and converse freely with the more intelligent ones . . .”19 Smith has been credited with the translations
of Chief Seattle’s speeches, and had those versions printed
in papers such as The Seattle Star. (Questioned are Smith’s
ability to translate Seattle’s true native speech and the
possibility that the translations included Smith’s own prose
style. This is under study at the university level and by
those in post-graduate study and research. )
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The
US Army Corps of Engineers map shows the piers and railroad
Smith envisioned many years before the reality came near
Smith's Cove.
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Helping
. . . a Question of . . .
Many others came to see the potential of
Smith’s Cove, and made claims. Due to
various difficulties some homesteaders lost hope and wanted to sell. Ione offered
her view on the situation
that reflected how Smith’s property holdings expanded: “In order to help them,
Papa,
who had inherited money from his father’s estate, bought one claim after another
and
that is how he acquired over a thousand
acres of land at Smith’s Cove . . . ”20 With the Civil War being fought in the
East, a number of factors caused the railroad to be postponed. Those long
piers were still just a dream. Despite all of this, Smith was
able to increase his
holdings and bank account. Henry busied himself as he practiced medicine,
farmed, and dealt in commerce, government work, and Republican
politics. He was not one
to seek the spotlight and
worked quietly about his business: “No sir, I never dabbled in politics. It is
true I represented King County five different times, and I was the first Superintendent
of Schools King County ever had, but I never asked a man to vote for me in my
life, and I never sought office. I didn’t like politics and I didn’t like to
hold office, but Lord bless us when I found myself at Olympia. I did the best
I could.”21  Typical picture of the type of land Dr. Smith would
have farmed in the Interbay area where his
first donation claim was made. Courtesy Paul
Dorpat.
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